Rustic Luxury in the Mad River Valley
- Megan Demarest
- 4 hours ago
- 7 min read
STORY BY MEGAN DEMAREST
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY THE PITCHER INN
Our weekend at The Pitcher Inn with a visit to the Warren Store in quaint Warren, VT
There is nothing quite like winding your way through Vermont—the ever-changing landscape of mountains, curving rivers, and peaceful towns all steeped in New England charm. Each stop along the way offers a comforting sense of familiarity, yet every place manages to feel distinctly its own. One such gem is the hamlet of Warren, nestled in the heart of the Mad River Valley, where the rustic-chic ambiance of The Pitcher Inn and the eclectic spirit of the “Almost World Famous” Warren Store blend history, luxury, and local flavor into a quintessential Vermont experience. My family and I had the pleasure of traveling from the Shires of Southern Vermont to the Mad River Valley to share a lovely weekend getaway in Warren, where we dined on exceptional cuisine, enjoyed the delights of the unique general store, and melted away into harmonic bliss at the Inn’s Wellness Center. Our short trip was just what we needed to rejuvenate and relax together, surrounded by the beauty of our beloved home state.
A Storied Retreat
Originally built in the Civil War era as a humble lodging house for weary travelers navigating the region’s three mountain passes, The Pitcher Inn was tragically lost to fire in 1993. Reborn in 1997 as a luxury inn, it now stands as a beacon of hospitality, charm, and timeless design. In 2020, the Inn found new stewards in Gale and George Dorsey, who preserved its historical elegance while adding curated art collections, refined culinary offerings, and fresh enhancements to the already lovely guest spaces.
Today, The Pitcher Inn boasts nine uniquely designed rooms and two spacious suites—each one an homage to Vermont’s heritage. Think: historical figures, vintage farm tools, equestrian touches, and hand-hewn beams set against plush beds and modern spa bathrooms. Just across from the main inn is Edgewater House, a beautifully restored clapboard home overlooking Freeman Brook. Opened in November 2023, it offers three luxurious en suite bedrooms —perfect for families, groups, or those traveling with canine companions. Accessible to over 350,000 acres of wilderness, the Inn is the perfect place to stay for anyone seeking a tranquil haven or year-round adventure in the Green Mountain National Forest.
My family stayed in the Stable Suite, a dog-friendly, equine-inspired two-bedroom suite complete with wood stove, hidden TV, and cozy touches that made us feel immediately at home. I could have spent hours luxuriating in the jetted soaking tub of our gorgeous bathroom, inhaling the exquisite aroma of Whisper Hill’s rosemary and lime scented soap, but my husband and son were patiently waiting. We came to relax, but also to explore…and to eat!
Culinary Delights
The culinary highlight of The Pitcher Inn is 275 Main, helmed by Executive Chef Jacob Ennis. Ennis is known not only for his commitment to local ingredients but also for his innovative Fire to Fork menu, where meals are sometimes prepared in the dining room fireplace for a one-of-a-kind sensory experience. He also makes his own homemade maple syrup, jams, and cheeses, including my favorite cheese, burrata!
Our dining experience was exceptional. Seated by the fire, I started with a silky carrot soup crowned with coconut foam and dried herbs, followed by pillowy gnocchi stuffed with butternut squash and ricotta, drizzled with brown butter, and topped with crispy sage. My husband, Matthew, savored a hearty roasted duck breast cassoulet, while our son, Elliott, made a surprisingly adventurous dive into a Bronzino tataki, followed by grilled octopus with dill crème fraiche and roasted cauliflower. We rounded out the evening sharing indulgent desserts—a chocolate and raspberry tart and a feather-light tiramisu that vanished in seconds. Our cocktails were just as divine. I sampled the Mintnight Sky #2, a beautiful beverage that pleases the eye before the first sip is taken. It’s a quirky concoction of vodka, wild blueberry Amaro, and Fernet Mente, combined and adorned with a Luxardo maraschino cherry and a wheel of dried lemon. So unusual, so delicious. I can also recommend the Moss Glen Mule, made with Mad River rum, ginger beer, Crème de Violette, pomegranate, sage, and lime. 275 Main offers al fresco dining in the warmer months, where you can relish your meal by the pretty back garden and Freeman Brook.
If you’re looking for a more casual vibe, the Tracks Tavern offers a cozy fire-lit setting with a billiard table, refined pub menu, and the same commitment to excellence. Both restaurants are open Wednesday through Sunday, and wine lovers will swoon over the Inn’s 500-bottle wine list and private cellar. Of course, you don’t have to be a guest at the Inn to enjoy a meal in either establishment, but part of any guest’s stay includes breakfast, which is a lovely morning top off to an enjoyable and relaxing night in one of their rooms. We found the berry crêpes to be a highlight, but the classic eggs-your-way, home fries, bacon, and toast also hit the spot.
Wellness in the Mountains
To unwind after a day of indulgence, we visited the new Wellness Center at The Pitcher Inn, located in an historic farmhouse just across the street. The moment you walk in, your senses will be bathed in tranquility— the smell of burning incense, the sounds of a peaceful forest, the glowing bronze-colored Buddha statues, and the warmth of a friendly greeting. As someone who’s always been tentative about massage due to extreme sensitivity (I’m horribly ticklish!), I was thrilled (and surprised) to find the experience transformative. I relayed my concerns to my massage therapist, Evelyn, and she tailored the session to my sensitivities with thoughtful communication and intuitive touch, creating a serene journey that left me refreshed and restored. I held on to that blissed out, post-massage feeling as long as I could. When it was Matthew’s turn, I knew he was in for a real treat, and the smile on my face told him as much. We are both grateful to Evelyn for our incredible massage sessions.
If you’re looking for a deeper sensory experience, your tailored massage can include aromatherapy or hot stones. For more adventurous travelers, the Center also offers infrared light therapy and yoga—ideal for après-ski or a post-hike recharge. Don’t forget to hit the refreshment bar for flavored waters and healthy snacks! And, of course, the views surrounding the Inn are stunning. I’ve always found our fair state to be therapeutically beautiful. Having a bad day? Look outside, in any season. In Warren, the mountainous landscape with the Mad River running through it will not disappoint.
Across the Road: The Warren Store
No visit to Warren is complete without stepping into the legendary Warren Store, just a few steps from the Inn. With a team led by store manager Celeste Jones and grill manager Alex Brink, this iconic general store perfectly captures Vermont’s spirit: equal parts eccentric and curated. The second floor, newly revamped by retail visionary Lori Kenig Slater of NYC’s Just North Design, is now a treasure trove of home goods, women’s apparel, jewelry, children’s gifts, and artisanal skincare products—many sourced from Vermont makers. On her website, Lori shares: “Creative retailing is my passion and in my blood. My family founded New York’s iconic Love stores and Ricky’s NYC, and I grew up surrounded and fascinated by the customer experience and the community of specialized stores. As such, the sourcing, merchandising, and theatre of retail is a part of who I am, what I do best, and what I share with my clients.” Lori’s sense of “creative retailing” is evident at the Warren Store, and even those among us who aren’t shopping enthusiasts will find it hard to resist the lure of all the lovely, artisanal items for sale.
Downstairs, the store features local groceries, a vibrant deli including grab & go meals, and a bakery that churns out top-notch French pastries and good, old-fashioned pies and cheesecakes. If you’re looking for a super special treat, I highly recommend the cronuts—doughnut and croissant hybrids that are as decadent as they are tasty. Made with laminated dough (like a croissant), then deep-fried (like a doughnut), filled with pastry crème, and then rolled in sugar and glazed. Do not leave without one (or two, or three!) You won’t regret having a taste of the Warren Store to bring home with you. We also couldn’t resist bringing home a House Levain, a sourdough bread unique to the Warren Store.
Nearby Gems
The Mad River Valley has no shortage of adventures. In warmer months, you can hike, bike, fish, and glide your way through the valley’s natural wonders. In winter, Sugarbush Resort, just 10 minutes away, offers some of the best skiing in the Northeast. Mad River Glen is only 15 minutes away and boasts the Single, one of only two remaining single chair ski lifts in the country. For art lovers, Edgewater Gallery provides a curated visual feast right in town. With The Pitcher Inn as your home base, you can take a fall foliage driving tour and explore Waitsfield, Moretown, Fayston, Duxbury, Waterbury, and beyond. America’s smallest capital city, Montpelier, is just over a 30-minute drive, where you can hit up the bustling downtown scene or go paddling in the Winooski River, among other activities.
Making Memories
Our journey to Warren reminded me why Vermont has such a gravitational pull. It’s not just the landscapes, the history, or the outdoor adventures—it’s the thoughtful blend of tradition, luxury, and genuine hospitality. General Manager Brooks Bradbury and his staff strike the perfect balance between warm, genuine hospitality and guest privacy, all while fostering an ambiance of deep appreciation and respect for their guests. Whether you’re curled up by the fire sipping a cocktail, taking in the scenery on an invigorating hike, or hunting for the perfect handmade gift at the Warren Store, a stay at The Pitcher Inn in the Mad River Valley offers moments of peace and pleasure that endure long after you’ve left.
For more, including details on special packages like the romantic Vermont Refresh, visit:
To check out the Warren Store, visit: